This article is taken from ISSUE 02 of our print edition, see morehere.
‘A real French girl is a girl who speaks very loud. Every French girl I know is not afraid to speak up, she’s not this chic girl, you know. A real French girl is someone maybe more true and raw.’
Here is something I can relate to, perhaps even too much at times. Simon Porte, quoted above, is the 24 year old designer behind Jacquemus, named after his mother’s maiden name. Simon hails from Lubéron near Marseille, a city he says inspires him by its trashy and brash attitude felt not only through its indecipherable thick southern accent but also in the way women dress themselves (think over the top makeup and apparel).
But trashy is the last thing one thinks when met with one of Jacquemus’ collections. In fact, the fabric used in every piece in all nine of his collections, mostly linen and boiled wool, screams demure anti-glamour, yet in the perfectly-placed simple yet sexy cuts one gets a sense of his initial trashy references. Always aiming to tell a story instead of focusing on just the clothes themselves, Simon often accompanies his collections with short films depicting women’s less-than-chic daily lives; girls loitering around a public swimming pool, a woman that looks after a multitude of pets, factory labourers at work. Jacquemus’ stockist Gago once described Simon’s designs as ‘c'est rien mais c'est tout’, and that’s exactly what they are: nothing but everything.